Pokemon GO: How Long Does it Take?

There’s been a lot of digging around by the community to find out how Pokemon GO works, what the limits of the game are, and how to get there the fastest way possible. It’s been discovered that the (current) maximum level a player can reach is 40, though no one is known to have gone past 30. But why is that? The game has been out for a few weeks now, you would think with all the obsessive fans out there someone would have reached the level cap. I decided to do some digging of my own to find out why.

The experience points required to advance to the next level, at the beginning of the game, are trivial. Multiple guides online show how level 5 can be reached in just 30 minutes after creating an account. 30 minutes per 5 levels, doesn’t that mean that it should only take 4 hours to reach level 40? Bulbapedia has a list of the experience required for each level, but here’s a more visual interpretation of the data.


The chart on the left shows how much experience is required to level up between levels 1 and 19. Level 1 requires 1,000 XP, level 2 requires 2,000 XP, and so on. The chart on the right puts into perspective what kind of mammoth experience gains are required to advance between levels 1 and 40. The chart is essentially flat through 19, starts to pick up at 20, and by 30 it just takes off. So now that we know how steep the mountain is, how long does it take to climb? Let’s start with estimating XP gained per hour.

Let’s assume that you’re only catching Pokemon that are easy to evolve, making use of Lucky Eggs to double the XP gained from evolving your pest Pokemon. If you spend 2 hours catching nothing but Weedles and Pidgeys you will net yourself 12,000 XP (enough to get yourself to from level 1 to 5!) and 180 of each candy. This should get you 15 evolutions of each type. When you use your Lucky Egg it lasts for 30 minutes, and each evolution animation takes a while, so about one evolution per minute is about right. Evolving with the Lucky Egg will net you another 30,000 XP. You’re probably hitting up PokeStops while you’re playing (you’ll need to in order to get enough Pokeballs to keep this up) so let’s assume you’re in a park and can manage one stop per minute while catching Pokemon. That adds another 6,000 XP. Just to be generous let’s also assume that you’re getting good at throwing balls, so each capture has a “nice” or curveball bonus for 10 XP each for another 1,200 XP. So we’re at a total of 48,000 XP over the course of 2.5 hours (two hours for catching, 30 minutes for hatching) for an average of 19,200 XP per hour. I’m not taking egg hatching into account because it’s far too random and depends on the quality and quantity of the eggs, and how many incubators are in use. So if we overlay this data with the experience required per level we get this chart.


Under nearly perfect conditions it takes an hour or less per level until you’re at level 18, then starts to grow. 2.6 hours from level 20 to 21, 3.9 hours to level 22, 5.2 hours to level 23, 6.5 hours to level 24… 18.2 hours to get from level 29 to 30. Again, this is under nearly perfect conditions. You’ll be slowed down by trying to catch more interesting Pokemon, interacting with friends and fellow trainers, and actually enjoying the game. In all likelihood, you’ll be spending 2-5 times this long per level, which is why even your friends who are really into Pokemon GO are floating between levels 21 and 24.

And if you’re wondering how long it could ideally take to reach level 40, it’s 1,040 hours or 43 days of non-stop playing. If you’re semi-reasonable and only playing 8 hours per day that ends up at 130 days or over four months.

Pokemon GO: CP Gains During Evolution

I’ve been curious if there was a way to predict what the CP of a Pokemon would be after it evolves. Was it the Pokemon’s size? Current CP? Trainer level? I decided to start tracking different figures before and after a Pokemon’s evolution. With a very, very small sample size, I’ve learned that Pokemon who evolve into their final evolutionary form have much bigger CP.

Spreadsheet of science!
Spreadsheet of science!

I’ll be updating this spreadsheet to see if other factors, like trainer level, have anything to do with it. Maybe I’ll evolve some really low CP Pokemon to see if they catch up.

Pokemon GO: Gyms, Eggs, and Being Beefy

In the last post I talked about Pokemon GO’s basic gameplay mechanics and optimizing item use to gain maximum player level. Today we’re going to take a look at gyms, what they do and how to fight, how to incubate and hatch eggs, and what you can expect after power leveling.

So What Are Gyms?

After you reach level 5 you’re asked to choose one of three teams, Mystic (blue), Valor (red), and Instinct (yellow). Your allegiance has no effect on the game other than what gyms you can defend or attack.

Gyms are currently the only place in the game where you can battle with your Pokemon. They come in different levels, which I’ll explain in a moment, which determines how many Pokemon can be stored there. A level 1 gym can store 1 Pokemon, a level 4 gym can store 4 Pokemon, etc. Swipe left to see the rest of the Pokemon in the gym. If you come across a gray gym it means that no one has claimed it for their team, or the occupying team has recently been defeated and is up for grabs. To claim the gym for your team simply deposit one of your Pokemon in the gym.

Entering a friendly gym, controlled by your team, let’s you drop off Pokemon if it isn’t already full, or spar with your teammates’ Pokemon. Doing this increases your XP and your gym’s prestige level. Higher prestige results in a higher gym level, meaning more Pokemon can defend it from opposing teams. After your sparring match you’ll need to heal your Pokemon. Because it’s a friendly match your Pokemon are never knocked out, meaning you don’t need to use and recovery items.

Gyms controlled by other teams are a lot more interesting. In the friendly sparring matches you only choose one of your Pokemon to battle against the whole gym, one at a time, but here you’re selecting six. As your Pokemon’s hit points near zero, or if you have another one that has a type advantage against the opposing Pokemon, you can switch out during the battle. As you win battles the prestige of the gym drops, opposing Pokemon are kicked out, and eventually the gym become free for the taking. In suburban areas a gym might belong to a team for a few days at a time, but in busy areas with lots of trainers a gym might change owner multiple times an hour.

Defending gyms isn’t just for ego. Each gym you defend rewards you with coins, which can be spent on items like Lucky Eggs and Incubators, as well as XP. Individually each gym isn’t worth much, and bonuses can only be claimed once every 20 hours, so it might be worth the effort of finding a secluded gym without much foot traffic and claiming it.

So How Does Fighting Work?

The simple answer is that your Pokemon have two attacks, a primary and secondary. The primary attack typically does much less damage than the secondary attack. Quickly tapping on your Pokemon during battle will trigger its primary attack. While you’re doing this you’ll see a segmented blue bar near the top-left corner of the screen fill up. Once one of these segments is full you can tap and hold on your Pokemon to trigger its more power secondary attack. These attacks take longer to perform and can be dodged but can also deal massive damage.

The longer answer is that there are multiple attributes that contribute to the battle: CP, HP, typing, attack typing, and attack power. Since I haven’t defined these yet I’ll go ahead and do that now.

  • CP – Short for Combat Points, it’s a way to determine your Pokemon’s strength in battle.
  • HP – Short for Hit Points, this is how much damage your Pokemon can sustain before being knocked out.
  • Typing – All Pokemon have one or two types, such as grass, fire, flying, psychic, etc. Each of these types had strengths and weaknesses. Example, fire attacks do double damage to grass types.
  • Attack types – Each attack does damage of a certain type, like those listed above. These attack types typically correspond with a Pokemon’s typing, but not always.
  • Attack power – Each attack has a base amount of damage it deals before other calculations are done. A primary attack might have a power of 10 and a secondary attack might have a power of 50, dealing 5x the damage.

Like in the normal game, an attack with a power of 10 typically doesn’t do 10 damage. There are a number of calculations that are made to determine the actual strength of the attack and the damage dealt to the opposing Pokemon. We don’t have all the formulas and details for GO just yet, so here’s how things seem to work so far.

First off, CP rules everything. Even with a type advantage it’s incredibly difficult to take down a Pokemon with a significantly higher CP than yours. That is, against a CP 800 Weepinbell, your CP 700 Magmar is going to have a bad day.

Typing is the second most important thing to take into account. GO seems to follow the same strength/weakness rules as the current main Pokemon games, and it’s pretty easy to figure out who has the advantage. Fire attacks to double damage to grass types, but half damage to rock types. That said, Pokemon can have attack types that don’t correspond to their own typing. One example of this is my Slowbro, a psychic and water type, who happens to have Ice Beam, an ice type attack. Making sure you pair your Pokemon appropriately with the defending Pokemon of the gym is critical to getting the win.

Your Pokemon’s attacks and attack power will change during evolutions so unless it has already reached the end of its evolutionary line there’s no reason to pay too much mind here. Once you’ve got a gang of fully evolved Pokemon you can start evaluating which is going to be best suited for battling and start powering them up. Powering up your Pokemon increases their CP and HP at the cost of Stardust and candies. This can get very expensive so avoid powering up your Pokemon until they have a CP over 8-900 when caught, evolved, or hatched. They’ll end up stronger in the long run.

Speaking of Hatching…

Of the three ways to get new Pokemon hatching, or “incubating”, requires both the most and least amount of work.

Spin enough PokeStop medallions and you’ll get eggs along with your pokeballs and potions. Your eggs can be found by going to your list of Pokemon and swiping left. Tap an egg, then tap ‘incubate’, and select one of the incubators to put the egg in. Each egg has a distance requirement before it can hatch: 2, 5, and 10 kilometers. The game tracks how fast you’re moving so riding in cars won’t count for your incubating progress. The game also needs to be running for your progress to count, so keep that in mind before going out for a run. Eggs with longer incubation period result in stronger, rarer Pokemon, as well as more candies for that evolutionary line.

You start the game with one incubator that can be used unlimited times. As you level up you’ll receive additional incubators that can only be used three times each. If you’re going to hatch 2 km eggs they’re best put in the infinite use incubator since they hatch quickly and typically don’t have a lot of good stuff in them. You can choose to use them as you get them, wait to use them all simultaneously (which, combined with a lucky egg, can result in huge XP gains), or you can pay for additional incubators and go to town.

Life at a Higher Level

During your lower levels the temptation to power up seemingly strong Pokemon is overwhelming, but it simply isn’t worth it. Why? When I was a lower level, maybe 10, I evolved an Eevee into a CP 400 Jolteon and spent all my Stardust powering it up to a seemingly massive 660. Now, at level 18, 19, 20, I’m encountering wild Pokemon between CP 400 and 850 regularly. I evolved another CP 520 Eevee into a CP 1300 Vaporeon. That was without using a single mode of Stardust.

PokeStops are also dropping different items. They had started dropping greatballs but are now dropping ultraballs.

Basically, everything is better and I could have some pretty monstrous Pokemon if I had saved my dust and candies from pointless power-ups.

Pokemon GO: A Beginner’s Guide

Today I’m going to skip the rambling introduction and get right to the meat and potatoes.

What Is Pokemon GO?

GO is an augmented reality game, meaning it blends the game into the real world. Using your phone’s GPS you and your friends can search for Pokemon. All players share the same instance of the game, meaning that if one player finds a Pokemon other players should be able to find that same one in the same place. The main objectives are to collect Pokemon, train them to make them stronger, and defending your team’s gyms while battling other teams’ gyms. Also getting exercise and being social are important but that doesn’t really need explaining.

How Do You Play?

After downloading the game from the Google Play or iTunes App Store you’ll sign in with your Gmail account. Once you’re in the game you’re greeted by Professor Willow who gives you a brief overview of the game and its mechanics. You then get to choose your starter Pokemon, Bulbasaur, Charmander, or Squirtle. Which one you choose actually makes very little difference since you can’t go to gyms until your player level reaches five. Also, your starter’s CP, or Combat Points, are only 12 which is completely useless for battling or leveling up as I’ll explain shortly.

So now we need to catch Pokemon, but to do that we need Pokeballs. You get those by going to PokeStops and spinning the medallion, which drops items that are automatically added to your inventory. Once you’ve collected a bunch of Pokeballs it’s time to start catching Pokemon. Simply wondering around is usually enough to start some of your core catches: Pidgey, Weedle, and Rattata. For the first few player levels this is pretty much going to be your focus; spin, spin, catch, spin, catch.

“But that sounds boring!” I hear you cry. Yes, it might be hard not to evolve or level up that Krabby or Slowpoke you caught, but trust me, it’s worth it, and I’ll explain why later.

Tips For Catching Pokemon

In the bottom-right corner of your screen there’s a small list of nearby Pokemon. Tap this list to open a larger list of every Pokemon that’s around you. The number of footprints indicates relative distance each one is from you. If there’s a particular Pokemon in that list you want to catch, tap on it. The window will shrink and only display that Pokemon, along with its distance. If the number of footprints increases, or it disappears entirely, you’re going the wrong way. If the number of footprints decreases you know you’re on the right track. If there are no more footprints you’re basically standing on top of it. Look for russling grass in the game; this should give you a hint for where to look. Eventually it should jump out and you’re ready to catch it.

Once you’ve tapped on the Pokemon and the catching interface has appeared you’ll see the Pokemon and your Pokeball. Around the Pokemon there will be two circles; a white one that stays the same size and a green one that shrinks, gets big, then shrinks again. The basic goal is to throw the Pokeball into the white circle to catch the Pokemon, but you get more experience and a higher catch-rate for hitting the green circle. The smaller the circle the bigger your bonus.

You can also throw one of two ways. The first way is by simply dragging the ball up quickly with your finger and releasing. The second is by spinning the ball and throwing at an angle. This is a more difficult throw but gives you another boost to the catch rate.

Just like in the game, better Pokeballs will have better catch-rates. If you don’t have Greatballs, or if you really just want to make sure the Pokemon doesn’t get away, you can use Razz Berries to give a bonus to the catch-rate. They’re one-use items and only work each time you attempt to catch the Pokemon. This means if it pops out of the Pokeball you’ll need to use another Razz Berry to get the bonus again.

Leveling Up with Pidgey Power!

You can power up a weak Pokemon but you’ll end up using all of your resources, Stardust and Candy, and the end result will be a mediocre Pokemon and depleted resources. The best course of action is to simply catch a Pokemon that’s already strong and then level it up. But, in order to catch strong Pokemon, your player level needs to be high. So how do you do that? By taking advantage of an in-game item called Lucky Egg. This item doubles your player’s experience gain for 30 minutes. When combined with evolving Pokemon, your player level can make huge jumps. I went from level 10 to 14 in the course of about 10 minutes.

Each Pokemon caught gives you 3 Candy, plus 1 more if you transfer it to Professor Willow, for a total of 4. Pidgey requires only 12 Candy to evolve (a more typical amount is 50) and nets you 500 XP, or 1,000 if you’re using a Lucky Egg. By level 9 it wouldn’t be much of a stretch to have caught maybe 50 Pidgey, netting 150 Pidgey Candy. That’s enough for 12 evolutions. 10 evolutions times 1,000 XP each gives you 12,000 XP total, enough to hit level 10. Weedle is another Pokemon to use for quick leveling. They are at least as common and also require 12 Candy to evolve, so that’s easily another 12,000 XP, so you’ve gained another level. Repeat this for all the common Pokemon with low evolution costs and you’ll gain levels en mass. You’ll get another Lucky Egg at level 10, then again at level 15, so there are plenty of changes to bulk up.

Once your player level is up you’ll start getting better items from PokeStops, like Greatballs and Super Potions, and encountering Pokemon with higher and higher CP. Since you have hopefully not spent any of your Stardust you can start capturing monsters with a CP of 500+ right off the bat, which results in much higher CP in the long run.

Soldering and Desoldering guides

I’ve screwed up plenty of electronics trying to add or remove components with poor solder technique. Lifted pads, burned components, the lot. If I’m going to be attempting to repair and modify consoles and handhelds I should probably learn how to do things right. After searching YouTube I found these incredible guides filmed in 1980 and 1982 by PACE, Inc. These are definite must-watch videos if you’re interested in soldering.

Basic Soldering Lessons 1 – 9

Rework & Repair Lessons 1 – 8

Retr0briting a white PS2 controller

This spring I came across a Japanese Playstation 2. Not just a Japanese Playstation 2, but a white Japanese Playstation 2. For like $50. Normally fat J-PS2s run $80-100 so getting a non-black one half that was pretty sweet. It even came with the original white controller. At least, it used to be white.


Yeah. It’s kind of gross. I’m not sure if it’s UV damage or smoke damage, either way it’s pretty nasty. Maybe it’s supposed to be pale yellow? Let’s find out.

Top half of the controller compared to the inside of the bottom half.
Top half of the controller compared to the inside of the bottom half.

Oh no. Hell no! Ew, ew, ew! Not only is it gross yellow, it’s also filled with dirt. Since we’re going to attempt restoring the plastic we’ll need to tear it apart and clean it anyway, so let’s do that.

I'm done.
I’m done.

How? How?! At least this is the last time this controller will ever be this dirty.

After the bath I mixed up some Oxy-Clean and hydrogen peroxide. The peroxide was only 3%, not the recommended 6-12%, and I didn’t have xanthan gum to make it into a easy-to-apply paste, so I just had to dunk the top half of the controller into the liquid  solution (I couldn’t fit both halves in the container) and pray.

Brightened top compared to the yellow and original white.
Brightened top compared to the yellow and original white.
Brightened vs as-is.
Brightened vs as-is.

It looks surprisingly good but it’s still not where it should be. I’m guessing it was because the hydrogen peroxide was too diluted. Time to try a more powerful solution.

The top half of the controller looks yellow because of the lighting.
The top half of the controller looks yellow because of the lighting.

Continuing my testing on the top half I gave it multiple coatings and sessions out in the sun and didn’t see much of a change. Most of the reports I’ve read claim that it only requires 60 to 90 minutes in the sun, but after 2 hours I wasn’t seeing much, if any, change.


While not being white-white it’s certainly much better than it was (go back and look at the first picture again). I think this is as good as I’m going to get, so time to move onto the bottom.


It was hard to make out in photos but the lightening on the bottom was a bit uneven. I recoated it and let it sit longer but didn’t get a better result. I think the liquid hydrogen peroxide diffuses the light, lightening the plastic more evenly than using the hair cream. Regardless, the controller looks white at a glance, especially with indoor lighting, and it doesn’t feel like touching it is going to give me emphysema, so overall I’d say this was a success. Maybe in the future I’ll find a really yellow piece of plastic I can chop up and do some scientific testing.

Gameboy Advance Restoration – Day 2

In the last post I had finished taking the Gameboy Advance apart and scrubbing it clean. It made no difference at all but the prep-work was important for the next step: hydrogen peroxide and lots of sunlight. Note: The photos in the previous post were taken with my DSLR; these photos were taken with my phone so they’re going to look quite a bit different.

I wasn't able to get all the air bubbles out so I had to weigh the parts down.
I wasn’t able to get all the air bubbles out so I had to weigh the parts down.

At about 8 in the morning I set the container out in the sunlight. It was supposed to be sunny all day long so I figured this would be a perfect time to test how well the hydrogen peroxide works. What I didn’t realize is that our patio would be cast in shadow around 9 or 10, and since I was at work I couldn’t move it.

I probably should have left it at this state but I figured there was more color to be brought back.
I probably should have left it at this state but I figured there was more color to be brought back.

So this is the result after basically a full day of shade. It looks pretty good (by which I mean it isn’t that greenish black anymore) but I was curious if I could get the purple back if I left it in direct sunlight. I rinsed the parts, replenished the hydrogen peroxide, and placed it somewhere it would get full sunlight all day.

You can see the richer purple on the bottom of the system.

Once it was done I washed it again and put it all back together. It is purple, but it’s a faded, sort of ashy-looking purple; not quite what I was expecting.

With all the black banished from the plastic it’s time to restore the color. I had recently restored the plastic trim on my car using Back to Black, so I decided to try that on the GBA’s plastic shell. The bottle claims it repairs “light oxidation” but is “safe for all colors”, so why not give it a try?

Top half recently treated with Back to Black.
Top half recently treated with Back to Black.

The initial difference is pretty staggering. I was a little worried about the darker areas, not sure if they were stress marks or what, but it was just from there being a heavier layer of gel on those areas.

After a complete application.
After a complete application.

After treating the whole surface I buffed the remaining gel off and compared it to the correctly-colored plastic. In my mind it was looking a little better but comparing the before and after photos it pretty much looks the same. I noticed that where the gel was applied very liberally the color looked perfect before buffing and drying, so I did something a little crazy.

There's no kill like overkill.
There’s no kill like overkill.

Yes, that is exactly the color I was going for! Absolutely perfect! I knew it wasn’t going to last, but maybe it would at least help.


Maybe… maybe a 5% gain? I want to believe it looks better but honestly it looks pretty much the same. At this point I have fewer options. I could:

  • Wet-sand the top layer of plastic to bring fresh plastic to the surface, but lose all texture and effectively ruin the shell.
  • Paint it, and ruin the shell.
  • Replace the case with a new one.
  • Live with the faded case.

The unit cost me $15, plus 2 or 3 more for a replacement battery cover, and another $2 for the hydrogen peroxide. Average price for a Gameboy Advance is $30. A new shell is roughly $15 shipped, so if I go that route I’ll have spent the same amount of money, if not slightly more (plus time and gas) but I’ll end up with a basically brand-new unit. Not sure what my next move is going to be just yet.

Gameboy Advance Restoration – Day 1

A few days ago I was out thrifting and game hunting with a friend and decided to buy an atomic purple Gameboy Color. I’ve never owned one, and since I had no other way to play my GBC games I figured I may as well pull the trigger. It was pretty dirty for being bought from a store, but it wasn’t anything a little scrubbing couldn’t fix.

Today I checked Craigslist for a Gameboy Advance, looking specifically for something that needs some work so I could have a little project to work on. Instead I found a working unit for $15 with the only issue being a missing battery cover. With the retro game expos coming up I figured I could get a replacement for virtually nothing. After some typical Craigslist shenanigans I finally met up with the guy and noticed something interesting about the unit.


At first glance you’d think this is a black Gameboy Advance. In the sunlight, though, it’s hued toward a greenish yellow. And if you flip it over…


It’s purple. Except for the left side, where it’s kind of black.

It looks like the unit is suffering from some pretty extreme UV damage which gives me a few different options: A) Use a hydrogen peroxide solution to restore the plastic, B) replace the shell and side bumper things with new ones, and C) paint it. While I’m sure I could do an okay job painting it I have a lot of concerns about thickness and feeling of the paint. If I replace the shell I’ll be looking at another $12-15 plus shipping so I’ll be back up to the going rate of the unit, saving me no money at all. That leaves hydrogen peroxide. The typical recipe uses OxyClean (which I had but has since gone missing) but I’ll be attempting it with just hydrogen peroxide and a whole lotta sunlight. The next couple days are supposed to be very sunny so I’ll set it out for a day and let it sit for a second if it seems to be working.

Before that, though, it needed to be cleaned. So with the dark powers of Mewtwo to guide me I set to tearing down the system.


It was surprisingly clean. Not much dirt, no rust, just typical surface residue and a little button gunk. Hot water, scrub brush, and set it out to dry.

Tomorrow it goes in the hydrogen peroxide bath for about 12 hours and I’ll report back.

An Unlikely Friendship – AMD A8 and nVidia GTX

A while back I built a system for streaming; something inexpensive, portable, and powerful enough to record and stream multiple video inputs. I settled on an AMD A8-7650K. The price, performance, and beefed up integrated graphics proved to be an excellent combination. While building the water cooling system in my main rig my GTX 970 was laying around as well as my GTX 460. So naturally I did the unreasonable and compared the performance of the integrated Radeon R7 to a dedicated solution. But is it really all that unreasonable? The R7 proves to be an inexpensive platform for “console quality” but ideally a budget-based build leaves room to upgrade, so let’s see what happens when you do.

The system is composed of the afore-mentioned AMD A8-7650K APU overclocked from 3.4 GHz to 3.8 GHz in an MSI A68HM Grenade motherboard with 2x 4 GB sticks of Corsair DDR3 memory at 2188 MHz. Storage is a pair of Western Digital 750 GB Green hard drives in RAID 0. Power is courtesy of a 750 watt Corsair power supply. All of this is housed in an Antec P50 micro-ATX case which is badly in need of exhaust fans. During testing the stock APU cooler spins to defining levels despite the dual intake fans spinning at their maximum speed. The side panel was removed to exhaust hot air and keep the system ironically quieter.

For this round of tests the 460 will represent the “hand-me-down” video card you might get for free from a friend who’s upgrading their system. The 970 represents the “tax return” video card. Between these two cards we should be able to make reasonable estimates for how other cards, like a 780, might perform in a system like this.

The first test is 3D Mark’s Sky Diver test; a light snack for modern GPUs but provides a good baseline for integrated graphics and older video hardware. Unsurprisingly the integrated Radeon R7 was slaughtered in any test that woke up the GPU. Physics scores, which are CPU dependent, stayed the same across each test.

3D Mark's Sky Diver benchmark
3D Mark’s Sky Diver benchmark

Similar results can be seen while running the standard Fire Strike test.

3D Mark's Fire Strike benchmark
3D Mark’s Fire Strike benchmark

It should be worth noting that Fire Strike Extreme and Fire Strike Ultra can’t run, or shouldn’t, run on the integrated R7 or the GTX 460 due to both processing and VRAM limitations. Only the GTX 970 was able to run these tests. With each level of Fire Strike the graphics scores dropped quickly but the physics scores remained stable. Since only larger textures and resolutions are being used it makes sense that the physics scores wouldn’t change.

3D Mark's Fire Strike benchmark with the EVGA GTX 970 SC
3D Mark’s Fire Strike benchmark with the EVGA GTX 970 SC

Synthetic benchmarks only tell half the story, though. To get the other half let’s see what Lara Croft has to say about each of our GPU solutions.

Average framerates in Tomb Raider's benchmark tool
Average framerates in Tomb Raider’s benchmark tool

720p should be considered the default resolution for the integrated R7. If your computer spends its days plugged into a TV like this one does you’ll be hard pressed to notice any difference between 720 and 1080p. The game looks beautiful at normal settings and plays very well, even during scenes with explosions and collapsing caves. If you want to play with enhanced details or resolution you’ll need to add a dedicated GPU.

Average framerates in Tomb Raider's benchmark tool
Average framerates in Tomb Raider’s benchmark tool

That said, if you need 1080p resolutions the R7 may not be the best an option, depending on how demanding the game is. This is where the dedicated GPU solutions really shine.

Average framerates in Tomb Raider's benchmark tool. 1440 @ 2xSSAA, 4K with no AA.
Average framerates in Tomb Raider’s benchmark tool. 1440 @ 2xSSAA, 4K with no AA.

And of course, when you toss in your “tax return” card, you can start playing at 1440 and 4K resolutions, even on a 1080p display. By enabling nVidia’s Dynamic Super Resolution (DSR) your video card will render video at a higher resolution than your display, then downscale it to match your display’s resolution. The idea is that you get smoother, finer detail in things like hair, grass, object edges, etc. During my testing I lowered the anti-aliasing down to 2xSSAA on all of my tests and removed it entirely for the 4K tests.

So what’s the takeaway from all these charts and figures? The A8’s integrated R7 GPU does an adequate job at lower resolutions but is unlikely going to be a replacement for an Xbox One or Playstation 4. If you already own one and want to turn it into a medium-duty gaming rig a dedicated GPU will do the job just fine but you may still be limited by the raw processing power of the A8 APU.

PAX South 2016 – Days 2 & 3

With a correct perspective on what PAX South is we were able to start making the best of it. At PAX Prime our focus was on finding the key booths, playing the games we were the most excited about, and finding the most relevant panels. Down in Texas, though, we were able to dedicate all of Saturday to walking the show floor and sampling everything the vendors had to offer.

Yo, this is the convention center! At least, part of it. Seattle, step it up!

What games did we play? A few highlights would be a card game called Poop, Elite Dangerous, Cards and Castles, Freedom Planet (imagine if Sonic stayed 2D and 16-bit), Gungeon, Angry Video Game Nerd II: ASSimilation, a game like Mr. Driller but competitive, and a game where neighborhood kids use home-made weapons to fight monsters. We also entered as many raffles as we could which paid off big time. Well, maybe not “big time” but I did win a copy of Elite Dangerous and another member of our group won a SteelSeries mouse pad that’s probably the same size as her desk. Free games, free product (not just swag), beautiful weather, what’s not to love?

Frontier's Elite Dangerous booth. Boy have we come a long way since Descent.
Frontier’s Elite Dangerous booth. Boy have we come a long way since Descent.

I also go to meet some rad-ass dudes: Geoff Ramsey, who I was super awkward at but he was really kind and patient, and Matt Peak and Joel Rubin who are also really kind and patient. Seems to be a running theme with everyone at Rooster Teeth.

Matt Peak (right), Joel Rubin (left). Crouching because I tower over both of them.
Matt Peak (right), Joel Rubin (left). Crouching because I tower over both of them.

Hardware vendors were out in force with booths from HyperX, Zotac, DXRacer, OCZ, EVGA, Intel, AMD, Gunnar, and even a standind desk manufacturer who’s name I can’t remember or find in the program. Basically every part you needed to build and enjoy a PC you could look at and talk to someone about. Zotac even let me hold their AMP! Extreme 980 Ti (which I mentioned in the last post). Pretty cool stuff.

It's a magnet of the Zotac AMP! Extreme GTX 980 Ti! Adorable!
It’s a magnet of the Zotac AMP! Extreme GTX 980 Ti! Adorable!

A sign of how the industry is moving, PAX South saw not only Twitch in attendance but also XSplit (used for streaming to services like Twitch), GameWisp (a 3rd party solution for allowing streamers to subscribe outside of Twitch’s program), and Hauppage (makers of video capture hardware). There were also multiple panels on streaming, advising on proper ethics and work habits for prospective streamers.

PAX just wouldn’t be PAX without the Omegathon. Our group makes a point of always watching the final round to bring our PAX weekend to a close. We were skeptical that the Penny Arcade folks could out-do themselves after Spy Party and Mario Maker wrapped up PAX Prime 2014 and 2015. But they did, in glorious 64-bits, with Rare’s GoldenEye on the Nintendo 64. And because they’re evil they left the joysticks inverted.

After each winning one round and going 9 kills each in the third first-to-10 match, which included a 1v1 double-kill, Palpitatertot took the final kill and the victory over RugPisser.

[post video here]

Of course, video games and shiny video card’s aren’t what make up the soul of PAX, it’s just the shiny paint. The real reason PAX is so amazing is the people. People that run the event, you meet, and the friends to go with.

Our crew.
Our crew.

Our crew, the Juans of Gamelon, traveled thousands of miles and sacrificed sleep and sanity to experience San Antonio, at least within walking distance of the convention center. If I went by myself it would have been miserable.

Our King!
Our King!

There’s not much else to say. Games are awesome, friends are awesome’r. If you have the chance to adventure with people to a cool new place, do it. Do it, do it, do it!